Reviewed: Marc 49 Wine Bar

Like the cities of the East Bay, local wine bars are an eclectic mix of the expensive, chic spots and the run-down neighborhood joint. A few, like Temescal's Marc 49, hit a nice balance, offering a good selection of reasonably priced wine in a happening part of town.

Located in the heart of Temescal, Marc 49 fits into the neighborhood with its art deco and shabby chic decor. Space is plentiful with comfy lounge chairs up front good for couples and small groups, and an outside patio with heaters in the back for larger parties.

The menu consists of roughly 30 wines by the glass, with about 3 or 4 choices of each varietal. The menu balances local and global wineries, which I appreciate as it lets me sample wines from other regions. The producers aren't that famous either, as I only recognized a couple local wineries (Rock Wall and Urban Legend).

Unlike other wine bars, Marc 49 offers flights where you can pick and choose what you want to taste. For $11, you can taste any 3 wines, or splurge $14 to taste 4. Most wines are available by flight, glass and bottle, so you can taste almost the entire menu. Nothing disappoints me more at wine bars than a lack of flights, or that the wine I want to try is only available by the bottle. To help guide your decision, each wine has descriptive tasting notes in the menu or you can ask the servers what they like.

Marc 49 also offers small plates and appetizers like ceviche ($8), cheese and meats ($12) and paninis ($7) to complement the wine. The food is light, so don't think of this as dinner. Rather, Marc 49 is perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks, then grab dinner at any of the nearby restaurants like Burma Superstar or Pizzaiolo.

Marc 49
4915 Telegraph Ave., Oakland
510-652-2100

Reviewed: Zut! in Berkeley

A year later, and Zut! on Berkeley's Fourth Street isn't as polished as the month-old Apple store a few doors down. While the locally sourced, organic, sustainable Mediterranean fare is admirable, the service and experience is uneven.

To begin, we were seated in one of the worst parts of the restaurant - the sparsely decorated, loud alleyway near the restrooms. Essentially, I think of it as the kid's section - or where the wait staff train. While the bar and parts of the restaurant visible from the street are beautiful, beware the tables near the restroom, as there is nothing remotely interesting to see - unless you count peering at fellow diners in the decorative mirrors. But they can easily catch you glancing at them - awkward. Not only can you see fellow diners, you can probably eavesdrop, but only when you're not distracted by the Amtrak train horn every half hour.

Once seated, we were given an awkward pitch for that night's "awesome" family night $30 3-course prix fixe. Being our first time at Zut!, we left the family meal for another time and ordered off the regular menu - hoping to try some Zut! staples. We started with the roasted beet and citrus salad that was nicely balanced and perfect for a warm evening. Then came the best dish of the night: fried brussel sprouts with bacon, parmesan and lemon. We could hear the table next to us dismissing the sprouts, and we snickered knowing what they were missing.



The entrees were let downs after the starters. The Pt. Reyes Blue pizza was disappointing - too doughy and blue cheesy. The rotisserie half chicken with potatos and green beans was ordinary - definitely not in my top 3. With the dim lighting, it was hard to tell if the chicken was slightly uncooked or if it was dark meat. I didn't want to guess, so I stopped eating.

Service was friendly and a bit green, something I didn't expect among the poshness of Fourth Street, which leaves me wondering what type of restaurant Zut! wants to be. On the one hand, I can see family-friendly, neighborhood, casual dining for families and older couples. But, the decor and ambience are trying to create a hip spot on Fourth Street, much like O Chame. Regardless, I'd go back for bar bites and to try the Tuesday night family-style dinner, which varies in price based on seasonality. You can expect a 3-course meal (salad, meat entree and dessert) shared family style for about $30 a person. For an extra $15, get wine pairings.

Zut!
1820 4th St., Berkeley
(510) 644-0444

Reviewed: Phil's Sliders in Berkeley

Before I tried Phil's Sliders, I never understood why sliders existed. It was essentially a mini hamburger - a kid's or dieter's portion. But Phil's Sliders proved me wrong. Each slider has so much flavor and tastiness in the one bite that the deliciousness would get lost in a full-size burger. After the sticker shock of $2.50* for a bite wears off, you can bask in the perfect balance of Marin Sun Farms grass-fed beef, lettuce, cheddar cheese and special sauce.

Phil's Sliders opened a few weeks ago where New China Express used to be in downtown Berkeley. The narrow space is transformed with a decently-sized though minimalist dining section and an open kitchen. See the hanging posterboard menu and check the chalkboard wall for homemade dessert and shake specials. Once you know what you want, grab a mini-clipboard, write your order and hand to the cashier.


The portabella sliders pale in comparison, so I would avoid them unless you're a vegetarian. The poppyseed coleslaw ($2) was average and something I could find at any potluck, but the potato tots ($2.50) were fantastically starchy, creamy and crispy. Unlike butter-heavy croquettes, we ate these tots with our fingers without much need for napkins.

While the homemade shake sauces (chocolate and dulce de leche when we went) are delicious themselves, the shake ($2.50) disappoints. I like my shakes milky and rich, and Phil's are not that. The base looks and tastes like soft serve, melts too quickly, and is a bit grainy. We skipped the dessert, but an assortment of homemade cookies and brownies are displayed nicely at the cashier.

Service, while pleasant, still needs work to catch up with demand. Our to-go order of 4 sliders, a side of slaw and tots and a shake took 15 minutes to ready. The one cashier also makes the shakes, which holds up the line to order. I'm not sure what two of the three cooks do, as only one of them is assembling the sliders. I give the slider maker props, though, as ours were packed neatly and precisely while they could easily have been slopped together.

Overall, I'm glad to see Phil's in town. I definitely will continue to visit. I can afford the sliders and tots, but I'm not sure if the limited, pricey menu can sustain downtown where college students probably won't splurge for $2 sliders when there's a $6.99 buffet nearby.

*Posted prices say $2, but our bill total broke down to $2.50.

Phil's Sliders
2024 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley
(510) 845-5060